Tractors & Farm Machinery

Loader Hydro

John Deere 2210 tractor loader and backhoe very nice hydro 102 hrs22 hp 4wd. $13,500.00

NEW Massey Ferguson GC2400 4WD hydro tractor & LOADER – low as $199/mo $12,299.00

John Deere 4610 Tractor 460 Loader 4WD Hydro Drive 42HP Cruise 709Hrs $8,100.00

NEW Massey Ferguson GC2600 4WD hydro tractor 25 HP & LOADER – low as $199/mo $13,999.00

Ford 1620 Diesel Tractor, 4×4, 27 HP, Hydro, Ford 72″ Mid Mower & Ford QA Loader $2,946.25

1998 KUBOTA B1700 4X4 COMPACT TRACTOR W/ LOADER & FINISH MOWER HYDRO 1058 HOURS $8,495.00

New Holland Boomer 35 Compact Tractor Hydro 240TL Loader 60″ HD QT Bucket Ford $19,999.00

New Branson 28HP Turbocharged Diesel Tractor, 4WD, Hydro, Loader, Backhoe $16,950.00

Kubota M9540 4X4 Farm Tractor Cab/Air Loader Hydro Shut $32,900.00

KUBOTA L2800 4WD LOADER HYDRO TRANS $14,500.00

New Holland T1510 Compact Diesel Tractor Hydro 110TL Loader 60″ HD Bucket Ford $17,259.00

Damn it Scamp, you’re getting to them before I do and you’re saying pretty much what I’d say.

It doesn’t matter so much if your going to play Woodsball or Speedball/Rec ball, as the VS1 is more of a speedball marker and can be used more effectively in the woods than a Tippmann 98 (which is considered the woodsballers starter marker) due to it’s much more easily achieved higher rate of fire and small footprint. Not to mention it has eyes and, while many may argue that it doesn’t help, a mini expansion chamber

The loader you have listed will work alright for you, but if you can afford better I suggest you buy better.

I’m not familiar with those paintballs so I can’t say anything about them.

Due to the VS1’s more easily achieved higher rates of fire I suggest you buy an Anti-Siphon CO2 tank.

A pull through jerk squeegee like you have listed is a better choice than a swab as those just push the broken paintball shell up against the bolt.

A couple things I’d like to add. You will want to upgrade two things on that marker pretty quick. One, add a clamping feed neck, and two, buy a better barrel. A J&J ceramic is a good fairly cheap choice.

Edit.
Shit, I forgot to tell you how to service your marker.

Regular and basic cleaning – this need to be done after every day of play.

First, read the owners manual so You Are familiar with the tear down and reassembly process of the marker. After a day of play, remove the air tank and hopper. Then remove the barrel and pull your squeegee through it a few times or until it appears clean and free of paint and/or debris. Next, remove the bolt by pulling up on the cocking knob and sliding the bolt rearward out of the marker. Again, run your squeegee though until it appears clean and before reinserting the bolt put a few drops of air tool oil(works just as good if not better than many paintball marker oil’s and it is cheaper) on the bolt’s O-ring.

Servicing – This should be done at least once a month, even in the off season.

Again, make sure you have removed the air tank and paintballs if not already removed. Remove the bolt the same way I told you earlier. Now, use an allen wrench to loosen the screw behind the handle/grip that holds it on. You should only have to loosen it half way, but perhaps more. Then you should be able to remove the velocity adjuster knob and have a spring and the striker bolt come out. Use a paper towel or rag and clean all the parts you have removed from the marker, getting all the old oil off. Then when they are clean put a few drops of air tool oil on the O-rings as you reassemble the marker. After the marker is assembled put a few drops of air tool oil in the little hole inside where you screw you air tank, this is known as the ASA. Screw on your bottle of CO2 or HPA and (with your barrel still off of the paintball marker) hold a rag, NOT a paper towel, over the hole where you screw your barrel, turn on the maker and squeeze off a few shots of air into the rag you’re holding firmly over the hole where you attach the barrel. This is done to properly lubricate the internals of the marker. DO NOT USE ANY PAINTBALLS IN THE MARKER WHILE YOU ARE DRY FIRING IT INTO THE RAG.

Your owners manual should have told you something very similar to all of this and may have explained it better.